SteinTrack Mains 78pc Master Collection
Added 2024-12-06 18:18:06 +0000 UTCThe SteinTrack Mains Master Collection is the backbone of the SteinTrack system, designed to bring professional-grade organization and customization to any drawer. This collection includes all the main track components you need to build a modular grid system tailored to your workspace.
What’s Included:
78 STL Track Files:
Organized by unit size:
SteinTrack 1U Folder: Includes 1x1 to 1x12 sizes.
SteinTrack 2U Folder: Begins at 2x2 and goes to 2x12 to avoid duplicates like 2x1 (already in the 1U folder).
Continues through 3U to 12U, ensuring no repeated shapes.
SteinTie STL File:
Connect tracks to form a sturdy, unified grid.
Best Print Settings ReadMe:
Detailed print guidelines for flawless results.
Why Choose the SteinTrack Mains Master Collection?
Comprehensive Sizes: Tracks from 1x1 to 12x12 let you create layouts that fit any drawer.
Optimized Organization: Files are grouped systematically for easy use.
Professional Customization: Build grids to suit your tools, parts, or projects.
How It Works:
Choose track sizes from the included folders to create your layout.
Print tracks and assemble them with SteinTies for a seamless system.
Pair with the Perfect Fill Master Collection to complete drawer perimeters.
Important Notes:
This collection includes the main track components. For perimeter tracks, see the Perfect Fill Master Collection.
Designed to integrate with all SteinTrack accessories.
Transform your workspace with the SteinTrack Mains Master Collection—because true organization starts with a solid foundation!
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Use these files to create physical items for personal, non-commercial use.
Modify designs for personal projects.
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Selling or sharing physical products or design files.
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Comments
Happy to hear you're having better luck now! And thank you for offering to test some profiles for me. I never bothered with drying filament until this year since I was using ultimaker CPE+ for most of everything I was doing and generally it printed just fine all the time. But after moving to Bambu Im a believer in drying! I find the desiccant can keep the filament dry but its not good at doing the initial drying. You can always tell though if you need to dry the filament straight away before the print even starts just by looking at the test purge line: if its smooth -youre good, but if you see lots of holes - you need to dry. Also, something you can do if youre in a hurry to get the print off the plate, just pull the plate out and set it on the top glass of the printer and the head will pull away from the plate pretty quick so you can remove the print in just a few mins.
Christopher
2024-12-16 01:20:51 +0000 UTCGood question! Not at all—I think it’s great that others are designing for SteinTrack! While one of my main goals for this system is to provide a cohesive and uniform system that feels like it was designed by a single creator, I do fully support others creating their own designs and expanding its uses. I’ll continue to focus on official releases that align with my design strategy to keep the system feeling polished and complete, but I’m excited to see how the community brings their own creativity to it!
Christopher
2024-12-13 22:51:14 +0000 UTCWould you be opposed if people design bins for your system?
Konstantin Tarnorutskiy
2024-12-13 19:49:27 +0000 UTCThank you for the pointer, it really helps! i just got a X1C and i am waiting for some PETG HF that is supposed to be able to speed up the print, as for now i use xpetg matte from extrudr. i am down to about 4 hours now but are hopeful to get strong prints at a speedier pase. i have not set my mind on a dryer yed, but are looking at the sunlu, most dryers ar way ugly :) but with the ams and some silca gel i have not yet have had any problems and the matte finish is a bit harder to print so it has some small stringing and blobs but they are not on the printed grid. --- i suppose the P1S and the X1 series have many of the same parameters so if you are planning a bambu profile for the P1S i can test it on my X1C. ------ i am cautious also to not touch the plate, i just wait for it to cool down and i comes off easy without taking the plate out of the machine, and i wipe the plate with a microfiber cloth to get small debris and i have never needed to use any adhesives.
Morten Venli
2024-12-11 21:43:26 +0000 UTCWow I will hold my hands up and say I never truly believed in using IPA for bed adhesion but I've just followed those steps and the first layer on my 8x12 grid has gone down PERFECTLY. Guess you learn something new everyday! Thanks for the reply and enjoy your trip!
Hussain Alaswad
2024-12-11 15:50:49 +0000 UTCI am on a family trip right now and dont have access to my print profiles but Im pretty sure the first layer is 0.16mm and around 90mm/s with about 1800mm/3 accel 70c plate temp, fan off, 235c nozzle temp.
Christopher
2024-12-11 15:37:35 +0000 UTCPut on some new latex gloves and clean your bed with dish soap and water. Use a new paper towel to scrub the bed with the soap and rinse well so there is no residue. Use a new paper towel to dry off the bed making sure nothing else comes into contact with the print surface. Lay a few sheets of paper towel down and place your plate on it. Use some 99% alcohol and wipe down the plate in progressing pattern. Start from the top left and wipe to the bottom left, then move over slightly overlapping the last wipe by about 50% and wipe again from top to bottom always in the same direction. Do this until the whole bed is wiped down. After this, there should be no oils left on the surface and you should have no problems with your first layer sticking down.
Christopher
2024-12-11 15:34:34 +0000 UTCHey Hussain, Im not using anything special to get these to sick down but with my 10's of thousands of hours of printing experience, I can say beyond a shadow of a doubt: having an absolutely clean bed is key. This means no fingerprints, too! Not sure if this applies to you, but I see endless videos of people bending the bed plate to peel off a print and putting their hands all over the print surface... so here is the procedure I have my employees follow and we NEVER have adhesion issues :)
Christopher
2024-12-11 15:22:56 +0000 UTCI’m having some issues with printing the grids currently, the first layer is not going down well on my P1S. What speed settings do you use for initial layers, do you use any adhesives on the bed or any other tips? I’ve tried both petg and pla both are giving similar results of failed first layers.
Hussain Alaswad
2024-12-11 13:38:45 +0000 UTCI hope this helps you out until I get home and finish those profiles. I have a video coming where I dive into some gcode so Im doing the profiles while recording all at the same time. Im out of the country until the 20th and should be home for a pretty chill holiday so you can expect some releases during this time :)
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:39:43 +0000 UTC5. printer. the best results for petg at the size you want to print will by far be an enclosed chamber like the P1S/X1 series. Use a fan speed around 30% and 80% on overhangs and bridges with a plate temp of 70c. Dont use aux fan, it will cause your bin to warp. These bins can also be printed on open frame printers like the P1P or A1 series, but I would use PLA or PETG but only for smaller bins up to max 3x3 or you will start to see warping.
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:37:07 +0000 UTC4. Speed. I believe I have the speed set for the fastest setting: about 250mm/s but it does not print anywhere near this as it is globally controlled by the max flow setting in the filament parameters. I believe I set mine somewhere around 15mm3
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:32:57 +0000 UTC3. infill can be set very low. I just use grid infill with about 10% for the fastest print time but is also going to have enough material to bridge over for the floor of the bin. Set 3 solid bottom layers and 4 solid top layers for 0.12mm layer heights.
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:30:17 +0000 UTC2. Print the bottom half with layer heights of 0.12mm with 3 walls up to the point where the 45 angle finishes and then you can print the rest with layer heights of 0.18 for best finish (or 0.12 for the whole thing is fine too, just a bit more time).
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:27:27 +0000 UTC1. make sure you dry your petg really well. I dry mine for more than 8 hours at 60c and this works really well. Desiccant will not pull enough moisture out, so its best to use a heated dryer.
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:24:17 +0000 UTCHey Morten, thanks for your message. I have been working on a Bambu Profile Pack for release but I didn't get a chance to finish them before I left for my trip yesterday. It was going to include a better startup routine for the P1S, A1, and A1 mini; since I have all 3 of these machines I could test them to make sure they work well without a problem so you can look forward to these coming in the near future. Until then, I can give you some guidance on what works best for me.
Christopher
2024-12-11 01:22:17 +0000 UTCHi, cool system, i see you have the bambulab can you share your settings for printing theese in petg? i currently have xtrudr xpetg and downloaded a profile for it. it is no suggestion on the ammount of infil you use so i made it 100% but the print time for a 11x12 grid 5hourd 41 minutes. any suggestions to shorten the time is most apprechiated.
Morten Venli
2024-12-10 15:24:54 +0000 UTC
