Set 10 Classic Zoro Guide

Welcome back to another article for Two Dons! This time we're discussing Zoro. However this won't be on the animal variant. If you've been around in the first year of One Piece TCG, then this version may seem familiar -- classic, even. 😏



Why Classic Zoro over Animal Zoro?

Undoubtedly, the animal variant of Zoro is the common/ default version. That plays into our favor because your opponent will be mulliganing and making turn 0 decisions based on the idea that you are on animal Zoro rather than classic.

Classic Zoro

Pros:

• 1 turn faster than animal variant
  

• Extremely flexible on turn order (can take your opponents curve without hurting your own)
  

• Very consistent and can play with most hands
  

• Very rare to have non-games due to the nature of the deck
  

Cons:

• Much harder to play 100% correctly
  

• Fundamentally demanding (combat math, planning lethals a few turns in advanced, understanding when to take a turn off to develop)
  

• Lower high roll ceiling than the animal version
  

• Lack of Chopper in high quantities 😢
  

Animal Zoro

Pros:

• One of the strongest high rolls in OPTCG
  

• Board management is easier since you get free bodies each turn (with OP08 Chopper)
  

• Quite good at clearing enemy boards due to EB01 Chopper
  

• Dopamine from hitting off OP08 Chopper/ Shut Up and Come with Us!
  

Cons:

• If you fail to find OP08 Chopper early on, you're basically playing a starter deck
  

• Your plays are much more telegraphed with this version
  

• Folks will have more practice into this version
  

Who is this deck for?

Classic Zoro is a good fit for you if you enjoy playing fundamentally demanding aggressive decks. Sure there are general play patterns you will see in the early game, but in general each game will feel like a lethal puzzle you have to solve over a few turns. For myself, I find the classic variant scratching my brain in certain ways that the animal version didn't and so I gravitated toward it more.

Additionally, this this one of the more consistent decks in the format. There has been a lot of discourse on X recently about the format being inconsistent (in regards to the decks seeing play right now). You certainly won't find that issue with this deck. In a sample of over 300 games with this deck, I probably have had no more than 3 games I consider non-games due to weird/unfortunate draws.

However, my disclaimer is that this version takes a good amount of reps to get used to. You'll need to do a lot of limit testing to see exactly how fast you need to go in certain match ups / when you need to take some turns off to develop.

If you at first struggle with this deck, try your best to keep a learning mentality and look to see where you can play more efficiently / improve your microdecisions whether you win or lose.

Decklist



This is the 50 that I used at Pasadena Regionals (4/12) to achieve a top 8 finish! I consider the two ST01 Choppers the flex spots in the deck and they won me a couple games that day. One of the most common questions I was asked was why Chopper?

Not only is he an additional searcher count for both Nami and Dadan searcher, but he is extremely flexible in his uses. The two most common situations I used him for though, is:

1. Playing him alongside ST21 Luffy so that it was harder to clear Luffy. And as we know, if Luffy sticks on the board, your opponent is in for a world of hurt the following turn.

2. In the end game, placing down a cheap blocker like Chopper will make your opponent either allocate some DON to use characters/events to get rid of him during their lethal turn or if not, Chopper will straight up get solid blocking value. This works out to be similar value as a Radical Beam.

The rest of the list I've been very happy in those counts. Initially I had 4x ST01 Brook and 2x OP01 Sanji, but I saw success with a 3/3 split instead to see Sanji more often since he is insanely good at creating extra pressure while unstarving yourself if your opponent is opting not to swing into your leader.

Additional considerations for flex spots



The two flex spots in this list can accommodate for your specific playstyle preferences or even to adapt with meta shifts. Ultimately for Pasadena Regionals, I opted for 2x ST01 Chopper, but it could have easily been any of the other tech choices if the circumstances called for it. I'll outline some of the use cases for the tech considerations below:

EB01 Kid and Killer: Plays very well into your "kill them fast" plan and helps you push your game over the top before your opponent can stabilize. This can be useful in metas where you do not have time to stick around past turn 5-6. Great versus decks like Blackbeard, RG Smoker, Usopp, and P Luffy.

OP05 Nico Robin: The best use cases for Robin is being able to KO pesky low power characters such as 4c Rebecca blocker, 1c Mansherry, 2c Rosinante blocker, 4c Bonclay, 2c Doc Q, and 1c Lafitte just to name a few. You can also combo her with Gum Gum Mole Pistol as well to KO a 6k character and a 2k character. Where would this come up? Well, it comes up quite a bit against Bonney! With this combo you can easily handle a high threat 5c character like Cavendish or Carrot and also a 2c Rosinante blocker. Excels vs decks like: Lucci, Bonney, RG Smoker, Usopp, RG Law, and Blackbeard (sort of).

OP08 Monkey D. Dragon: This card is excellent vs decks that clear smaller bodies well either through combat or removal effects. Due to the higher cost and higher power, he is naturally a stickier body to place onto the board. That can be very useful in matchups where you need aconsistent pressure to whittle down their resources before going for lethal. This is great vs decks like: Blue Doflamingo, Shanks, Blackbeard, and P Luffy.

ST01 Tony Tony Chopper: The two most common use cases are mentioned above. It cannot be understated how annoying it can be for your opponent to have to deal with a cheap blocker during their lethal attempt. And because he only cost 1 DON to play, you still had 9 DON to pressure your opponent/ hold up Radical Beam. Excellent vs decks like: Blackbeard, P Luffy (even if they usohachi that is 3 DON they allocate away from swings at the cost of 1 of your DON), Shanks, Lim, and Green Uta.

ST01 Monkey D. Luffy: Strong against decks that have either a high density of blockers or high power blockers that are reusable each turn due to being unable to be cleared. Since he is a reusable source of unblockable damage, he can be a win condition all on his own. You just need to defend him when attacked into. Some decks this is solid into: Green Uta, Usopp, Blue Doflamingo, Blackbeard, RG Smoker, and RG Law.

OP01 Gum Gum Red Hawk: There are specifically two matchups that come to mind when I think of this tech card: Blue Doflamingo and Zoro. In the case of Blue Doflamingo, you can defend a 7k leader swing and KO their 2c Marshall D. Teach for only one card. The current iteration of Blue Doflamingo is more reliant on 2c Marshall D. Teach than ever so taking that away from them can be quite strong. Against Zoro, this card can be quite devastating in the end game to either prevent a checkmate set up (by taking away a swinging body) or setting up your own checkmate play. I will say, the one draw back is holding up 2 DON in a deck like Zoro can be quite awkward at times. Triggering this out of life is straight dopamine though!

ST21 Gum Gum Mole Pistol: I probably wouldnt play more than 3 copies in this deck, so in the consideration of techs it would only take 1 slot. The card is absolutely powerful and in some ways format defining. In addition to that, the trigger can be game winning in the late stages of the game too. Versus green decks that play OP01 Eustass Kid, you straight up cannot win without this card, so having an extra copy allows you to use extra copies for removal of threats while holding one for the 8c Kid turn. Generally good versus other decks as well as a form of removal for a 7k and under body. NOTE: Don't forget you can split the effect up. For example, -5k on a resting threat and KO a 2k standing unit. That way you can swing freely into the weakened until to effectively clear 2 units with one card.

How to play the deck/ General Sequencing

If I had to generalize the early play patterns it would be this:

Turn 1: Develop bodies

Turn 2: Develop more bodies (don't swing with anything but leader yet).

Turn 3: Go sideways with more characters than your opponent can clear in one turn

Turn 4-5: Continue the pressure

Turn 5-6: They're dead

Of course things don't always go so simply in card games like that, but this is the general macrogame for the deck.

In my observation, many pilots new to the deck fail in the first few turns by swinging with their board way too early. Why does this matter? Because your opponent will have something to swing at other than your life early on. This may result in you having too little resources to work with to end the game properly. Patience is key. When you take the first few turns to develop, your attacks can be quite explosive starting from turn 3.

Don't get me wrong, there are circumstances where it makes sense to go sideways earlier but in general, this is the heuristic you should follow.

Here are some examples of some powerful plays I do commonly:

ODD CURVE

Turn 1: Play 1c Buggy

Turn 2: Swing with Leader for 5k, then Play 3c Sanji

Turn 3: 5 DON available --

• Attach one to leader, swing 6k with leader.
  

• Use 3 don to play 3c Zoro, swing for 6k with him.
  

• Swing 7k with 3c Sanji.
  

• Use the last DON to play 1c Makino and target your 1c Buggy. Swing 7k with Buggy.
  

With a little patience, we were able to threaten 6k,6k,7k,7k by turn 3. The kicker for why this is strong is because now your opponent has multiple characters they need to clear otherwise the onslaught continues next turn. If they don't have a wide board, chances are they will continue to feel the pain.

EVEN CURVE

Turn 1: Play 1c Buggy

Turn 2: 4 DON available --

• Play 2c Brook and attach 2 rested DON to Leader, swing 7k with Leader
  

• Play 2c Sanji
  

Turn 3: 6 DON available --

• Attach 1 DON to Leader
  

• Attach 1 DON to Brook, swing 5k
  

• Swing 6k with Leader
  

• Use 3 DON to play 3c Zoro, swing 6k
  

• Use 1 DON to play Makino and target Buggy, swing 7k
  

• Activate Sanji's ability to take a life and go to 8k power, swing 8k
  

Same principle as the example before but we get to threaten 5k, 6k, 6k, 7k, 8k on turn 3!

Some matchups you may prioritize going wide on the board over hitting hard fast using 2c Curly Dadan and multiple searchers instead such as with Blue Doflamingo.

When do I develop and when do I go sideways?

A good rule of thumb is if your opponent can clear your board and you're left without gas to continue the pressure, it is time to consider not going sideways with your character(s).

Conversely, if you can go sideways with more things than your opponent can swing at GO IN. Your units gain value by being able to swing at your opponent more than 1 time and this scales the longer they stay on the board.

Sometimes you will find yourself in situations where your board is diminished after a big push. Rather than going in with the remaining few units left over, it can be worth it to instead just use your DON to refill your board and only swing with your leader. This way your opponent is also forced to swing at your life instead (and ultimately give you more resources to work with).

When do I go for life and when do I go for board?

I would like to say this once. You are an aggro deck, so your default mode should be to go for your opponent's LIFE.

However, there are exceptions. Sometimes clearing units can make sense such as when --

• You need to prevent your opponent from going for game the following turn by minimizing their number of attackers
  

• There are high threat units such as EB01 Brook on the board
  

When to consider going for an all out lethal vs a lethal over two turns?

Due to the nature of this deck, you'll often find yourself in a situation where your opponent is reasonably low and can possibly die to an all out rush. On the other hand, you're also holding a few Radical Beams so you can possibly hold on for an additional turn too.

It is important to take the time to think the math all the way through and see exactly how much your opponent can threaten on the lethal attempt next turn if your lethal fails.

If the lethal turn is not mathematically secured, it may be worthy to pressure a little bit less and hold up the radical beams. The idea here is that you will be draining resources on the current turn, live the following turn, and finish the job on the following turn (with their resources reduced from the turn before).

The only caveat I need to mention is that you should also try to consider what you are affording your opponent by allowing them an extra turn to untap their DON and characters. If this is opening a door for them to win, the answer is don't try to lethal over two turns.

In short, lethal over two turns when it puts your opponent into a checkmate situation. Sometimes, going all in when you don't need to ends up being a thrown match.

Matchups

Shanks: Preferred Curve - 2nd; 55/45

Don't try to clear their board unless it is to prevent a checkmate. You need to go for life consistently to put yourself into a position where you can threaten checkmate. If you go for board then you extend the game and play into Shanks' gameplan.

Blue Doflamingo: Preferred Curve - 2nd; 45/55 - 50/50

Ideally you should be looking to go extremely wide with your searchers to mitigate their ability to bounce your characters back to hand. If they lean heavily into using 2c Marshall D. Teach's ability, it may be worth considering pivoting to going for board since their hand size will be on the smaller side.

Blackbeard: Preferred Curve - 2nd - 60/40

If you deny them the even curve, then they will struggle a lot more into you. 4c Shiryu is their best card against us with (6 cost) Liberation being a close 2nd. Typically we're looking to go wide on the board and hit for a lot of 5ks and 6ks to tax their hand into oblivion. If we can push them to 0 by the time they get to 10 DON, their 10c Marshall D. Teach will mean nothing in the face of our Diable Jambe!

Bonney: Preferred Curve - 1st - 40/60

Our gameplan is to try to push their life down as quickly as possible and have a full board and Gum Gum Mole Pistol ready for their 8c Kid turn. Be wary of 7c Hody Jones during the end game. If you are looking to hold up Radical Beam, do account for the 2 DON they may rest with 7c Hody Jones.

Purple Luffy: Preferred Curve - 1st - 60/40

The game is significantly different going 1st vs 2nd here, so definitely try to win the dice roll. They have to take life for their leader ability so that is good for us, but they are pretty tanky as well. In the end game, multiple Gum Gum Giant may stand in our way. It can be possibly better to try to lethal over two turns like I outlined in the previous section.

RP Luffy: Preferred Curve - 2nd - 70/30

3 life leader vs aggro leader nuff said.

Animal Zoro: Preferred Curve - 2nd - 55/45

In Zoro mirrors, it can be a drawn out fight for board while slowly chipping your opponent down. Animal Zoro doesn't have the luxury of being able to be fully standing for their units without losing out on what makes their version unique/strong. That means we get to be proactive in clearing their board and pulling ahead.

Lim: Preferred Curve - 1st - 50/50

I have this listed as a 50/50 but in truth it is much worse if you go 2nd. They can set up a 6k blocker as soon as turn 2 and that is brutal for us among other things. They are a 4 life leader, so just try to push their life hard and hopefully set up a Diable Jambe finish if possible. Gum Gum Mole Pistol is strong here to clear their Doflamingo blocker.

Lucci: Preferred Curve - 2nd - 40/60

You should be going for face almost exclusively in this match up. They have a very large amount of non counters in their deck so it is possible they brick out in your lethal turn. Typically I only clear the EB01 Brook if available and send the rest to their face for attacks. If they see multiple OP05 Rob Lucci and multiple EB01 Brook, it can be hard to keep your board so in this match up I typically just go sideways with everything as I can so they can get some sort of attacking value.

RG Smoker: Preferred Curve - 1st - 60/40

They are a 4 life leader with a lot of non counter cards in their deck, which is a criteria for decks we prey on. Just make sure to have a Gum Gum Mole Pistol for their 8c Kid turn and you'll be golden.

Usopp: Preferred Curve - 1st - 60/40

This is an example of a matchup where we flip the matchup % simply by not being the animal version. We start going hard in attacks faster and typically they cannot stabilize in time.

Katakuri: Preferred Curve - 1st - 70/30

Katakuri's current iterations are mostly built to prey upon midrange strategies, but we're a little too fast for them. They can never use 10c Lin Lin due to them going low too quickly. Even with their removal on curve, there are a little too many attackers to deal with for them.

Conclusion:

If you made it this far, I want to thank you for taking the time to read our latest article. Truly Zoro can be a pretty complex leader to maximize, even though it (incorrectly) gets a bad rap for being a brainless rush aggro deck. Hopefully reading through this has been able to showcase that to a certain degree! However, this is only -- in my opinion -- scratching the surface for all the considerations needed to play this deck 100%. If you feel that you'd like to learn more, please reach out to us for a coaching session. Thanks and have a nice day!