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howNOTtoHighline

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howNOTtoHighline posts

You won't believe how strong micro stoppers are! Climbing nuts tested in real rock

You won't believe how strong micro stoppers are!  Climbing nuts tested in real rock

Climbing nuts tested to destruction in real rock. Watch us do our first tests of passive climbing protection in some bomber granite. We tested a Black Diamond Micro Stopper, some BD stoppers and an older Wild country nut. Let us know if you want to see more tests of passive climbing protection. &...

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Shawn Snyder Speaks Out!

Shawn Snyder Speaks Out!

Thank you Ryan Sheridan for facilitating this meeting with Shawn Snyder and myself to discuss our view points on bolting.  Thank you Shawn Snyder for meeting me so we can understand each other better and hopefully build a better bolting world because of it.    The Bolting Bibl...

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Break Testing Knots - Zeppelin & Figure 8 & Alpine Butterfly & Reever & Bowline & Double Fisherman

Break Testing Knots - Zeppelin & Figure 8 & Alpine Butterfly & Reever & Bowline & Double Fisherman

We broke 6 knots end to end and in a bend (a loop).  40 samples total.  Let us know on our discord page for our new series of How Knot to Tie Ropes on format and the testing you want to see.  https://discord....

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How NOT to Cook on El Capitan - Big wall climbing food tips

How NOT to Cook on El Capitan - Big wall climbing food tips

We think we are funny by bringing a BBQ and watermelon and a whole bunch of food up El Capitan that we didn't need.  We also do give helpful tips marked by the youtube chapters.  Think of things that will last, have variety, plan for easy meals (cooking and cleaning up).  It was ra...

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NO CHARGE: The Highliner: A Film. With Director Interview

NO CHARGE: The Highliner: A Film.  With Director Interview

---------I debated charging Patrons for this type of episode.  It took a bit of work but is experimental and doesn't fall into our break test or fancy project category.  I appreciate your donations to this channel and don't want to abuse the per episode "charge for this post" button.---...

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MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) on Climbing Gear is a Myth

MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) on Climbing Gear is a Myth

MBS or minimum breaking strength is great for comparing one product to another and I appreciate having standards on life supporting gear, BUT to boil down a piece of gear to only 1 single number doesn’t tell the whole story and we discuss gear, their ratings and value and limits of backyard sci...

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NO CHARGE: Drop tower is up and rebranding to HowNOT2.org

NO CHARGE: Drop tower is up and rebranding to HowNOT2.org

I don't charge patrons for these update videos.......

I work on stuff you don’t see for 6 months, so here is a monday update to bring you on the journey!  Here are the topics!  

Drop tower looks great.  It’s a journey, not a destination.  

Load cell is be...

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Rated maillon rapide aluminum vs steel quicklinks. Can we use these climbing and slacklining?

Rated maillon rapide aluminum vs steel quicklinks.  Can we use these climbing and slacklining?

Brent Roth gave me a maillon rapide aluminum quicklink rated for 25kn MBS that could make missions easier if weight matters.  These are 3x lighter than steel at 48grams vs 137grams.  It broke WAY higher than MBS at 53kn and the steel maillon rapide  broke at 65kn.  Why not use...

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How strong are CAMP Tricams? We tested them in real rock

How strong are CAMP Tricams?  We tested them in real rock

CAMP Tricams are either active or passive protection while rock climbing.  We test them in both uses in real rock and we found the noses would bust off since that is a lot of force focused on one single point.  We did another episode in our lab at 2021-08-04 16:00:08 +0000 UTC View Post

Climbing pro made from knots??? Textile passive protection tested!

Climbing pro made from knots??? Textile passive protection tested!

We finally tested soft nuts! We only tested this because you, our audience asked.  And asked! And asked! This is easily our most requested test.   Jenny Fischer (@jenny.lemmonpie) agreed to share some of her footage of placing and climbing on textile protection in the Czech Republi...

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Bowline on a bight break test

Bowline on a bight break test

Did a quick test of a bowline on a bight on our slow pull machine with skydiamond webbing from https://spider-slacklines.com/shop/en/highline-webbing/426-sk...

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Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC guide break tests - how strong is that eye?

Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC guide break tests - how strong is that eye?

Bogdan Cardoş asked Petzl how strong the metal eye was on the atc guide since it is a single point of failure.  They replied with "There is no standard requirement to communicate and breaking strength of the attachment point.  The product has been designed to be used as described in th...

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Drone blades vs Slackline webbing - Break Tests

Drone blades vs Slackline webbing - Break Tests

Mathias (https://www.instagram.com/mathiasrohdin/) flew his FPV drone for the 2.13 world record Lapporten Project we did with ht...

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What breaks first??? Petzl GriGri or the Ropes? + Beal Birdie Tests!

What breaks first??? Petzl GriGri or the Ropes? + Beal Birdie Tests!

I thought Petzl GriGri's would break the ropes if pulled hard enough but they slipped, even the 11mm rope.  These were slow pull tests and I'm curious what will happen in future drop tower test of the same thing.  We also tested a Beal Birdie which feels like a hardy steel body but I wa...

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Lapporten Update

We just got back from northern Sweden and arrived in Stockholm. We are working on a trilogy about the project because it was so complex.  We rigged a 2.13km highline and had 4 people send the line and many others cross it.  It really opened my eyes up to the next things that need to be ...

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Delayed Patron Post - Are Dewalt Powers SD6 Bolts Safe for climbing? Spec sheet says 12kn in shear???

Delayed Patron Post - Are Dewalt Powers SD6 Bolts Safe for climbing? Spec sheet says 12kn in shear???

Last video delayed being posted here on Patreon after Lapporten world record project.  

We tested 3/8" SD6 plus bolts from Dewalt.   Greg Barnes from the ASCA and Matt Markell sent them to use and said they the specs on the website weren't that high so tested them.  

...

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Delayed Patron Post - How to be a Professional Slackliner with Marcus Nelson, Aaron Bray, Mia Noblet

Delayed Patron Post - How to be a Professional Slackliner with Marcus Nelson, Aaron Bray, Mia Noblet

Catching up on posting here on Patreon after rigging the Lapporten world record project.  

Pushing the Line cast members Marcus Nelson, Aaron Bray and Mia Noblet share how to charge for slackline gigs, what goes into the business side and negotiations, and to how to value yourself. &nb...

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Delayed Patron Post - Are Dirty Holes Bad For Mechanical Bolts???

Delayed Patron Post - Are Dirty Holes Bad For Mechanical Bolts???

Delayed Patron Posting - Couldn't post here while on the mountain while rigging the Lapporten world record project.

We are supposed to clean holes we drill in rock before installing bolts.  We already tested glue in bolts with epoxy and found it to be super strong enough.  Now we ...

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American Death Triangle is a Myth

American Death Triangle is a Myth

If a span is 180 degrees it has infinite force on it.  Even zipline and electric wires have sag in them.  So 170 degrees is 5x the force as what is applied in the middle.  I thought an American Death Triangle put magical amounts of forces on the bolts and anchor material since the ...

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NO CHARGE QUICKIE - Will this work? Z drags built into our A frames for giant highlines

NO CHARGE QUICKIE - Will this work? Z drags built into our A frames for giant highlines

Heading to Sweden in 36 hours for the Lapporten project.  Why not squeak out a video.  This is what i'm trying to invent before leaving.  Will it work???  


➜➜➜Our Stuff! It’s free! ►Bolting Bible is free and at 2021-06-28 13:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

Brazil climbing bolts tested - Grampo P

Brazil climbing bolts tested - Grampo P

Hey Brazil, we test 6 Grampo P bolts.  Robelois donated them and Rodrigo Moota told us the welds are unreliable and the carabiners could unclip but they are everywhere in Brazil so lets find out how strong they are. They are installed backwards because the force should not really be applied ...

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Triloaded Carabiners

Triloaded Carabiners

I triloaded carabiners at the steepest angle i could and... you guessed it... it reduced the strength.  Albeit higher than I originally thought.  I believe it's proper term is called biaxial loading but we all throw "triloading" around so often that I am using it here.    ...

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NO CHARGE QUICKIE - Gripped Climbing Magazine exposed some Newbs

NO CHARGE QUICKIE - Gripped Climbing Magazine exposed some Newbs

Collin Watt sent me this Gripped Magazine article https://gripped.com/profiles/dangerous-bolts-added-to-yamnuska-removed/.  Newb Alert!  A local offered these guys a lesson j...

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John Bacher's favorite bolts tested

John Bacher's favorite bolts tested

We tested Taper Bolts (3/8" x 2 5/8") from https://www.mktfastening.com/sites/default/files/content/downloadable-files/mkt_taper_bolt.pdf.  Greg Barnes from...

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Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests

Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests

The rule supposedly is that you want a friction hitch to be 3mm smaller than the diameter of rope you are trying to grab and to use 3 wraps.  We did a bunch of tests and here are the numbers:  

4MM PARACORD: *Prusik 3.74kN *Klemheist 3.34kN *Auto Block 3 wraps - slips at 1.34kN, 4...

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NO CHARGE QUICK EPISODE - 81 to 1 pulleys for break tests in real rock

NO CHARGE QUICK EPISODE - 81 to 1 pulleys for break tests in real rock

Here is a quick update episode (no charge to patrons!).  Bobby Hutton and I test our new 81:1 pulley system to make break testing things in real rock real easy.  I got 25kn or 5,600lbf by myself so we are ready to rock!  

➜➜➜Our Stuff! It’s free! ►Bolting Bible is f...

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Huge Zipline with Basejumps - crazy stunts as seen on Pushing the Line on Discovery Plus

Huge Zipline with Basejumps - crazy stunts as seen on Pushing the Line on Discovery Plus

Please don’t Zipline!  We glamorize it on a tv show, and we make it look easier to set up than it really was in this episode.  Please don’t try these things on your own!  You can see us ziplining on episode 3 of Pushing the Line streaming now on Discovery Plus.  2021-06-12 13:30:59 +0000 UTC View Post

How to Rig a Rope Swing as seen on Pushing the Line - Discovery Plus

How to Rig a Rope Swing as seen on Pushing the Line - Discovery Plus

Please don’t rope jump!  But this is HOW if you don’t listen.  I believe it’s better to share safety systems than to withhold it if people are going to do what they are going to do.  If we glamorize it on a tv show, we can at least show what goes into it. Please don’t rope ...

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Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!?

Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!?

What happens when a carabiner partially goes over an edge?  Clearly it is not good for a carabiner to be loaded sideways so we tested how bad it is.    Check out  @Hard Is Easy...

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Canyoneering - Fiddlestick Break Tests

Canyoneering - Fiddlestick Break Tests

I tried rappelling with Discovering Moab (https://www.basejumpmoab.com/guideservice) where you can find discounts on our shop page (https://www.s...

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